Do you know the city of Alba in Piedmont, which is the (symbolic) capital of the Langhe region and an icon of the territory? If you’ve been reading our posts for a while, maybe you do, because I’ve already talked about our vacations in the Langhe. But today I’m returning to the topic because going there for me means recharging every time and experiencing always new emotions.
So today I’m taking you right into the Langhe region and I’ll tell you what to see in Alba and what to do in the city.
Why visit Alba: a guide to the capital of the Langhe region
This land conquered me from the first time I went there: gentle hills dominated by imposing castles, small villages rich in history dotting a landscape of vineyards and woods, excellent cuisine still affordable, and a wine that deserves an entire story of its own.
Here we had our first weekend as a couple, our first vacation with our very young child, celebrated Christmas, Easter, Ferragosto… Should I go on? ;) The list would be very long because we’ve had so many returns here, also because we have a house here!
But beyond (the luck) of having a place to stay in the area, I’m certain that if you happen to come around here, you’ll understand my enthusiasm. So today I’ve decided to talk to you specifically about the capital of the Langhe region. A symbolic capital, but no less important. Keep reading to understand why! This post is then organized like a mini-guide to Alba: click on the titles to go to the sections of your interest.
- What to see in Alba
- Things to do in Alba
- Practical information for visiting Alba: getting there, accommodation, restaurants
- Alba with children
- History of Alba and the Langhe region
- Visiting Alba and its surroundings in a weekend
NOTE: I recommend not leaving without a printed guide because the territory deserves it. There are several guides on Alba and the Langhe region to choose from, depending on whether you’re more interested in the historical aspects or the food and wine, the villages or hiking. Follow the link to find them all, but if you’re looking for a guide with tips from locals and itineraries, take a look at this one designed specifically for a weekend on the road in the Langhe region.
What to see in Alba, Langhe
Alba is called “the city of a hundred towers” and is the rightful “capital” of Langhe, even though the province is Cuneo. If you happen to be here, you really can’t miss it, with its marvelous Saturday market, where you can still find farmers coming with their crates full of vegetables, the Piazza del Duomo surrounded by restaurants, and the shop windows of Via Vittorio Emanuele – which everyone here actually calls Via Maestra – where the jewels, known as “tartufo” (truffles) and “vino” (wine), shine.
Going to Alba on Sunday morning means heading towards Piazza Savona, where everyone gathers and stopping for a cappuccino – or even better, a glass of wine – at one of the many outdoor bars. Then, once seated, engaging in people watching and smiling at sunburnt (and maybe more than that…) foreign tourists wandering the streets of the center with cameras around their necks and guidebooks in hand, exclaiming “Great!” out of nowhere.
But visiting Alba means thinking about Ferrero – the global giant that is based here and when it produces its delights, the air is filled with the scent of chocolate – and of course, its wines, called Dolcetto and Nebbiolo, which I assure you can stand up to those produced just a few kilometers away with much grander names and head-spinning prices (like Barolo, for instance).
A weekend in Alba is an immersion in its cuisine, with “carne all’albese” – I had never eaten raw meat in my life, but when I tried it, I wondered how it was possible that simple ingredients like meat, oil, salt, and pepper could create such a perfect combination! – and the grissini, which I challenge you not to touch when they’re placed in front of you at a restaurant. And of course, an immersion in the aroma of tartufo (truffle), where just a couple of shavings are enough to make a simple plate of tajarin delicious…
Finally, among the things to see in Alba, there is the Tartufo Fair that attracts thousands of people from all over the world every year, with narrow streets crowded with people for a stroll in the city center and stalls selling local products.
Well, I’ll stop here because otherwise I would continue writing for hours, as I can never get enough of this region, its cuisine, its wines, and its beautiful landscapes! I conclude by saying that a weekend in this area is truly a plunge into a beautiful piece of Italy, one that reminds us to be proud of our country. And, of course, if you plan a weekend in the Langhe and Roero, you absolutely cannot miss Alba.
So below you will find all the practical information to visit the Truffle Capital, and if you need any tips, feel free to contact us!
The Municipal Palace
It is located in Piazza Risorgimento in the historic center and is an ancient structure built on Roman buildings, where works such as “Adoration of the Magi” and “Madonna and Child with Saint Joseph and Saint Anne” are hosted, as well as the work “Audacious Lichen” by Pinot Gallizio.
The Cathedral of San Lorenzo
The patron saint of Alba is San Lorenzo, and its cathedral, characterized by red bricks, is one of the most recognizable in the city. Pay a visit inside: its ceiling will surprise you.
The Church of Maddalena
Along Via Maestra (Via Vittorio Emanuele), you will find another of the things to see in Alba: the Church of Maddalena in Piedmontese Baroque style. It used to house the remains of Blessed Margherita of Savoy.
The San Domenico Church
The Church of San Domenico, built in the 13th century, is a place where gospel concerts, meetings, and exhibitions are organized, which you should mark during a visit to Alba.
The San Giuseppe Church
Among the things to visit in Alba, there is the beautifully frescoed Church of San Giuseppe. The building dates back to 1643, and during the Christmas season, a beautiful nativity scene exhibition is set up. Today, it is possible to take a tour of the underground areas to discover the past of the capital of Langhe.
What to do in Alba in one day
The market of Alba
One of the town’s institutions is the Saturday market in Alba, which we recommend you don’t miss even just for a stroll and maybe to buy some typical Langhe specialties. By following the link to the post, you will find all the information to plan your visit (including parking).
What to do in Alba when it rains: Alba Sotterranea
If you are passionate about history – or in case of rain in Alba – then it’s a good idea to visit Alba Sotterranea. However, it is advisable to check directly on the website for the days and hours as it may not always be available.
A typical activity to do in Alba: Lo Sferisferio
A truly unique experience to have in the Langhe is to go watch a game at the Sferisferio in Alba. Palla pugno is an ancient sport that is still very popular in the entire area. By following the link, you will find all the details, and if you have time, attend a match: I assure you it will be a memorable experience like a local (but make sure to read the rules first! ;) ).
Visiting the city during the Alba Truffle Fair
In addition to what has already been mentioned as a must-see in the Langhe, if you love good wine and excellent food, the Alba White Truffle Fair is held every year in the autumn right in the city. Check the official website of the Truffle Fair for activities and schedules. If you are in Alba with children, pay attention to the event calendar that takes place during the Truffle Fair: the flag-wavers, reenactments of ancient crafts, or the donkey race will surely please your little ones!
Lastly, I would like to inform you that after the Langhe and Roero regions were recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Alba received a new recognition from UNESCO as a “Creative City” for Gastronomy in 2017.
READ ALSO: ITINERARY IN LANGHE
Visiting Alba: useful information
How to reach Alba
The city of Alba is located in Piedmont, in the province of Cuneo, and is the main center of the Langhe region, so much so that it has been nicknamed “the capital of Langhe“. The city can be reached by car or by train as there are good rail connections with Turin, and there are also buses available.
To travel around the area, however, you will need a car, although there has been a Sightseeing tour bus service in operation for a few years.
Where to eat in Alba
Among the restaurants we recommend trying in Alba is Vigin Mudest, one of the town’s institutions, now called Inedito Vigin Mudest, offering typical dishes from Alba at reasonable prices (although, unfortunately, we have noticed an increase in prices in recent years). For a quick snack in the city center, highly popular in the summer, you can visit Focacceria il Budego (although they specialize in Genoese specialties!). As for an aperitif, I suggest Vin Cafè, which offers fair prices, including for local wines. Finally, at Tartufi e Co, you can purchase excellent gastronomic souvenirs.
Where to stay in Alba
Over the years, we have had the opportunity to experience various accommodation options in the Langhe for staying in Alba and its surroundings. Here are a few we recommend with links for prices and availability: a very central hotel in Alba with internal parking, located in an eighteenth-century building in the heart of the historic center. There are also residences that offer vacation homes in Alba, such as this residence on Via XX Settembre and this brand-new property that rents apartments in the city center, also offering bicycle rentals.
Things to do at Alba with Kids
The Eusebio Civic Archaeological and Natural Science Museum is definitely one of the things to do with kids in Alba, especially on rainy days. During the beautiful season, you can take walks along the Tanaro river or go on bike rides.
Near Alba, various activities dedicated to the traditions of the region are organized for children, including grape harvesting, cooking courses, and simulated truffle hunting. In the blog, you can find many useful ideas on what to do with kids in the Langhe (follow the link to learn more).
The History of Alba
The city of Alba has been inhabited since ancient times: evidence has been found that attests to the presence of humans since the Neolithic period. There are also numerous remains that indicate Alba was a thriving center during the Roman era, and scholars report that the city obtained autonomous administration, becoming a strategic location in the area.
The medieval period is the one that saw the birth of the “hundred towers”, connected to the defensive walls and castles built on the hills of the city for defense purposes. But one of the reasons why Alba and the Langhe have become famous is that the first Partisan Republic was established here during World War II, earning a gold medal for military valor. The stories of Beppe Fenoglio are a perpetual reminder of the partisan activity that involved the area and its inhabitants, witnessing great acts of heroism such as those carried out by Carlo Ravera and his wife to save dozens of Jews.
BOOKS: There are two books that I recommend reading before visiting Alba: “Il Partigiano Jonny” and “I 23 giorni della città di Alba“. Both are related to the Resistance period and are truly intense.
What to see in Alba in 2 Days: Itinerary for a Weekend in the Langhe
An itinerary to explore the surroundings of Alba
If you’re planning a weekend in Alba, you could combine the visit to the town with some nearby but lesser-known villages like Diano d’Alba, Grinzane Cavour, Montelupo Albese, Serralunga d’Alba, Neive, and Mango. Of course, the classic itineraries in the Langhe also include Barolo and Barbaresco, but don’t limit yourself to these! To get around, you’ll need a car, although during the high season, there is a bus service that connects some of the villages in the Langhe.
Other recommendations for what to see near Alba in two days
As you may have understood, the whole area is worth exploring. If you’re looking for some inspiration to plan a weekend in Alba and its surroundings or a vacation in the Langhe and Roero, you’ll find some information and links to more detailed posts below:
- Itinerary for a Vacation in the Langhe and Roero: If you’re looking for a practical post with a tailored itinerary to visit the Langhe, we’ve prepared one specifically for that. Just follow the link for all the details.
- What to Do in a Weekend in the Langhe: If you have limited time and are planning just a weekend in Alba and the surrounding area, you can find some ideas by following the link to the in-depth article.
- Where to Eat in the Langhe Without Spending Too Much: You’ll find some advice on restaurants to taste typical specialties as well as where to buy products from the Langhe and Roero in the article.
- Lesser-Known Langhe: If you’re looking for an idea for a short trip not far from Alba, two lesser-known gems in this area are Mango and Neive. In the article, you can find some photographs and practical tips to visit these places.
- Giant Benches of the Langhe: Another hidden gem to see near Alba in the Langhe are these benches located in scenic spots on the top of the hills (you’ll find them all in the post).